Weber Genesis Propane to Natural Gas Conversion: Kit Guide and Install Reality (2026)

Which Weber Genesis models can be converted

The eligibility matrix is the single most important thing to settle before you buy a kit or hire anyone. Weber's position changed meaningfully with the 2022 Genesis redesign, and most of the confusion on forums and Reddit is a decade of old answers that no longer apply to grills sold this year.

If your Genesis is in the 'No' rows, the honest recommendation is to keep it on the fuel it was built for and buy a second, fuel-correct Genesis if you've moved to a house with a gas line. The 'No' isn't Weber being difficult — the manifold regulator, the orifice sizing, and in some cases the valve seat profile are all fuel-specific, and swapping only the orifices on a current-gen Genesis leaves the regulator mismatched with the house line pressure, which is a safety issue, not just a warranty one.

What’s inside a Weber natural-gas conversion kit

For the eligible older generations, a Weber-authorized NG conversion kit contains three or four parts. First, a set of main-burner orifices sized for 7-inch water-column natural-gas pressure — one per main burner, so a 3-burner E-315 gets three orifices and an S-435 gets four. Second, a side-burner orifice if the grill has a side burner. Third, a manifold regulator or regulator-bypass component that takes the grill off the propane first-stage regulator and puts it on the house line, which supplies pressure already regulated at the meter. Fourth, a flex hose or quick-connect fitting that mates to the appliance side of the house NG line.

Weber ships these kits directly from Customer Service for a confirmed model + serial. Historical MSRP for a complete Weber OEM NG kit ran around $30 to $60 depending on burner count. Weber kits were never a retail SKU, which is why you won't find them on Amazon or in the grill-parts section of a big-box store. Anything labeled 'Weber conversion kit' from a non-Weber seller is an aftermarket substitute. Those exist and some are machined to Weber's orifice spec, but installing one voids the Weber fuel-system warranty the same way any other non-authorized conversion does.

The install, start to finish

The orifice swap is the easy part. Running the house line is the hard part. In almost every scenario, the sequence is: plumber runs or extends the line and installs the appliance-side quick-connect, you swap the orifices, you pressure-test, you cook.

Step 1 — Confirm the house line

Natural-gas service to a residential grill comes off the home's main gas line at the meter, through the house, and out to a stub at the grill location. If you don't already have a stub at the patio or an existing exterior NG appliance, a licensed plumber or gas fitter needs to run that line. The permit requirement is universal in jurisdictions I've worked in; the enforcement varies, but the homeowner's insurance implication of an unpermitted gas line discovered after a loss is not a risk worth carrying. Plumber quotes for a straight 15 to 25-foot run in an accessible wall or crawlspace typically land between $400 and $900. Underground runs or trenched routes run $900 to $1,500.

Step 2 — Turn off every fuel source

Close the propane tank valve. Disconnect the regulator from the tank. For the house NG line, close the quarter-turn appliance valve at the stub. Leave the grill in the open air during the swap so any residual gas in the manifold dissipates.

Step 3 — Pull the control panel and reach the orifices

Remove the burner control knobs and the control panel cover. On a Genesis II and most Genesis III units, three or four screws hold the panel. The main-burner orifices are brass fittings threaded into the end of each valve. A 10mm or 12mm wrench backs them out. Replace each with the matching Weber NG orifice from the kit — they are engraved with an identifier so you can confirm you're using the NG set and not the LP set that came out of the grill.

Step 4 — Swap the regulator

If the kit includes a regulator, remove the LP first-stage regulator from the manifold inlet and install the NG adapter or regulator-bypass component the kit specifies. If the kit relies on the house-line regulator at the meter, the manifold inlet becomes a straight flare fitting that mates to the appliance-side flex hose.

Step 5 — Connect the flex hose to the house stub

Use the hose and quick-connect fitting the kit supplies. Hand-tight plus a wrench-quarter-turn is the usual spec; the flare seats are soft enough that overtightening will damage them. Avoid Teflon tape on the flare itself — tape is for threaded pipe sealant, not flare-to-flare connections, which seal on the flare face.

Step 6 — Pressure-test every joint

Open the house-line valve. With all grill knobs still off, check every joint — manifold inlet, regulator or bypass, every orifice, hose connections — with a soap-water solution in a spray bottle. Visible bubbles mean a leak. The right fix is tightening one more quarter-turn or, if that doesn't close it, re-seating the fitting. Never ignore a bubbling joint by 'just lighting the grill and burning it off.' Natural gas pooling in the grill cabinet can flash-ignite when you open a valve.

Step 7 — Light-off test, slow

Open one knob to the low setting, press the igniter, and watch the burner. NG flames read slightly bluer and shorter than LP flames at the same knob setting because NG has a lower heat-of-combustion per cubic foot. Cycle each burner one at a time through low-medium-high and listen for any pop-back or yellow-tipped flames, both of which signal a mismatched orifice or a partially blocked venturi. A healthy NG burner on a properly oriented orifice runs steady blue with a clean leading edge.

Safety checklist you don’t skip

Three things go in the drawer with the grill manual and stay there as long as you own the grill. One: a photo of the orifice set with the NG identifier visible, so next time you clean the burners you don't accidentally reinstall the wrong set. Two: the model + serial + conversion date on an index card inside the control panel, so a future owner or technician knows the grill was converted and when. Three: an electronic combustible-gas detector — the $40 kind that beeps when it detects methane — kept at the grill location and used during any future maintenance that opens a joint. A soap-water test catches big leaks; an electronic detector catches small ones.

Warranty, resale, and the real decision

Weber's limited warranty covers each grill in the configuration it was sold in. A field conversion — even an authorized one — leaves a paper trail that matters at resale and at any future warranty claim on the fuel system.

If you own a pre-2022 eligible Genesis and you're staying in the house for years, the conversion is low-risk and preserves the grill you already know. Weber Customer Service has handled these conversions for well over a decade and the warranty position for an authorized conversion on an eligible model is intact for the non-fuel parts of the grill. If you're planning to sell the home or the grill inside two years, a factory-fuel grill holds its value measurably better than a converted one on the used market — buyers see 'converted to NG' as a yellow flag whether it's fair or not.

If you own a 2022-or-newer Genesis or any Smart-series Weber, the practical answer is to leave it on its original fuel, buy the fuel-matching Genesis for the new location, and keep the original grill where it works. That's the position Weber takes in writing, and it's the position that keeps the warranty and the resale value intact. Weber Genesis holds value in every generation; running two Genesis grills on two fuels is a surprisingly common setup in houses that entertain both on a covered patio and at the pool.

What to shop if you’re buying new

If today's decision is a new Genesis purchase and you have a house gas line, pick the natural-gas SKU at order. The Weber Genesis S-435, Genesis SX-335, Genesis E-315 and Genesis E-415 all ship in both NG and LP configurations; order the NG variant and the grill arrives correctly orificed and regulated with no conversion needed. If you have a propane tank and no plans to run a line, the LP SKUs — like the current S-415 freestanding propane model — are the right pick.

The fuel decision drives the orifice and regulator, not the rest of the grill. BTU output, cooking area, sear station, side burner, and the smart-grill telemetry on the SX models are identical across NG and LP builds. You don't lose features by picking the fuel that matches the house.